Issue 04 · Destination 01

Singapore

"Home. The cleanest, strangest, most over-engineered island in Asia."

Lived here 2019–present · Last walk: April 2026

Singapore — original photograph
SingaporeOriginal photograph

DisclosureThis guide contains affiliate links. We earn a commission if you book — you pay nothing extra. We only recommend things we've personally tried.

02

Should you actually go?

Yes — but not for two weeks. Singapore is a 3-to-4-day city. Long enough to do hawker centres properly, one museum, one nature reserve and one rooftop. Anything past day five and you'll feel the heat tax.

Skip if you came for ‘undiscovered Asia’. This is the opposite. Come for: precision, food, the way the MRT actually works, and Changi Airport (yes, the airport is a destination).

03

The experience

The trick is to stop trying to ‘see’ Singapore and start eating through it. Begin at Maxwell Food Centre at 11am before the office crowd hits Tian Tian. Then take the MRT to Tiong Bahru, walk the art-deco blocks, coffee at Plain Vanilla. Sunset is non-negotiable: Marina Barrage with a kite or 1-Altitude if you want a drink.

01 · via Klook

Gardens by the Bay — Cloud Forest + Flower Dome

Book the combo ticket on Klook — 15% cheaper than the gate. Go at 7pm for the Garden Rhapsody light show.

Book on Klook

02 · via Klook

Singapore Night Safari

Better than the day zoo. Take the tram first, then walk the trails backwards.

Book on Klook

03 · via GetYourGuide

Hawker centre food tour with a local

If you only do one tour. The guide gets you past the queues at Old Airport Road.

Book on GetYourGuide

04

Where to stay

Three picks at three price points. All affiliate-linked to Expedia — same price as going direct, helps keep this site running.

Budget

The Pod @ Beach Road

~SGD 70 / ~USD 52 per night

Capsule done properly. Quiet pods, good shower pressure, walkable to Bugis MRT. The free breakfast is not a lie.

Check rates on Expedia

Mid

The Warehouse Hotel, Robertson Quay

~SGD 320 / ~USD 235 per night

Converted 1895 godown on the river. Rooms are dark and good. Po restaurant downstairs is worth a meal even if you don't stay.

Check rates on Expedia

Splurge

Raffles Hotel

~SGD 1100 / ~USD 810 per night

Yes, the Singapore Sling is overpriced. The suites are not. Stay one night for the Long Bar history, then move somewhere cheaper.

Check rates on Expedia

05

Logistics from SEA

Visa
Most passports get 30–90 days visa-free on arrival. Fill the SG Arrival Card online within 3 days of landing — it's free, ignore the third-party sites charging $20.
Flights from SEA
Changi (SIN) is the hub. From KL: 1h 5m. From BKK: 2h 25m. From HKG: 3h 50m. Scoot, Jetstar, AirAsia for cheap — full-service Singapore Airlines or Cathay if you value the lounge.
eSIM (Klook)
5GB Singapore eSIM via Klook is SGD 6 and works the second you land. Buy before you fly so it's ready at Changi. Get the eSIM →
Money
SGD. Cards everywhere, even hawker stalls now take PayNow QR. Keep SGD 30 cash for the rare uncle-only stall.

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06

The honest verdict

Worth it

  • Hawker centres (Maxwell, Old Airport Road, Tiong Bahru — in that order)
  • MacRitchie Reservoir treetop walk on a weekday morning
  • Changi Airport. Plan a 4-hour layover here on purpose.

Overrated

  • Merlion. It's small. Take the photo, leave.
  • Sentosa beaches. The sand is trucked in from Indonesia.
  • Orchard Road. Same shops as everywhere else, more expensive.

"Three days, eat your way through it, leave wanting one more meal. Don't try to ‘do’ Singapore — let it feed you."


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Affiliate disclosure

Some links on this page are affiliate links — if you book through them we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend stays and experiences we've personally used. All opinions, photographs and prices are our own. FTC-compliant disclosure.